TOMMY HILFIGER
This season, Tommy Hilfiger (above) delved into the best of the brand's archives to create quite the success story. By redesigning classics such as the varsity jacket, cricket sweaters, rugby shirts, and the tracksuit in traditional red, white, and blue of yesteryear's heyday, this collection was a standout. But getting back to Tommy's roots was not the designer's only good idea. In a sophisticated and masculine collection, the clever use of patchworks, floral prints, and pajama elements, paired with these iconic pieces, gave the overall impression of casual simplicity and a natural ease. Next spring, the Tommy man will be more stylish than ever. Grant Woolhead
Photo courtesy of Tommy Hilfiger
NAUTICA
For Steve McSween's men's presentation this season, Nautica envisaged the modern Riviera. The collection was divided in four sections. There was the traditional Nautica red, white, and navy blue sport collection, which featured classic Breton stripes, complete with models holding rowing oars and trophies. Then the "pool side chic" portion, which had beautiful linen suits in a pastel blue, and marigold knit polo shirts. The tailored separates, which were shown on a bocci ball court, had a whiff of Jude Law in The Talented Mr. Ripely. Finally, the fresh-off-the-boat section, which had beautiful pea coats made from sail fabrics and interesting painterly geo prints on technical outerwear,seemed perfect for the chic man on-the-go. Overall, the vibe was modern, elegant, and relaxed, whilst still staying true to Nautica's seafaring heritage. Grant Woolhead
Photo courtesy of Nautica
PARKE & RONEN
Parke and Ronen's show was the sexiest we saw at Men's Week. During the finale, every model emerged in a hip-hugging swim briefs to make sure audience members could snap every inch of their statuesque physiques. The show was surprisingly bold in comparison to some of the other presentations. While the gratuitously minimal swimsuits weren't outside of our expectations, the bright, colorful crop tops and boldly-printed bomber jackets that accompanied them were anything but safe. Bright florals, decals of seahorses and starfish, and peekaboo layered underwear celebrated of the male form while remaining tasteful. At least, Parke & Ronen's fresh take on swimwear nudged up against gender norms that most other designers steered clear of tackling. And the designers' kiss during their finale bow made us feel all fuzzy inside. Click here to see the models backstage. Hilton Dresden
Runway images by Julien Sauvalle.
SIKI IM
Always one of the most cerebral designers to show in New York, Siki Im decided to focus on quality vs. quantity. The German-born designer (pictured, middle), who has a habit of staging dramatic runway shows (see this fall's Punk Vampires) decided to keep it simple for spring, with an intimate, by-invite-only presentation in a Tribeca high-rise. Models and friends of Im (including Maxwell Osborne, one half of Public School; pictured right) stood still, backlit against the Manhattan skyline. The brightness forced fashion editors and bloggers to put their phones down, come closer, and really look at the clothes. Im mixed his three lines (Siki Im main line, his Den Im range, and his newly-launched Siki Im/Cross athleticwear collection) to present a wardrobe inspired by Zen monks, who "endure trends and tribulation through consistency and persistence," according to the designer's notes. His monochome looks were slick, understated, and beautifully constructed, confirming Im's status as one of the most interesting men's designers right now. Click here to see all the looks. Julien Sauvalle
Photo by Julien Sauvalle
