Fresh from the Paris and Milan runways, these fall/winter 2024 menswear looks are catching fire!
Feathered fringe & fabulous fur
Dolce & Gabbana
Although a common staple in many a gay man’s wardrobe (through different variations), the world of feathers, fringe, and fur has hit the menswear mainstream in full force this season. Louis Vuitton took Paris on a wild western ride, showcasing leather chaps and wool coats with fringe detailing as well as luxurious multicolor furs (echoing the Mob Wife Winter trend currently in action). Gucci sent down an overcoat that imitated the look of fringe, but in actuality, the effect was accomplished by tiny black glass beads strewn together in a feather-like design.
At Givenchy, a dark brown coat looked quite hirsute as bunches of long hairlike strands were grouped together all over the piece to imitate the look of fur. At Egonlab, leather fringe was sent down in various leather textures and colors. Valentino opted for long strips of black wool to create a luxury carwash-like textile coat. Louis-Gabriel Nouchi sent faux fur coats, trousers, and jackets down the runway that gave his mostly structured collection some levity and motion. Above, Dolce & Gabbana debuts a voluminous faux fur coat in shades of gray.
Bedazzlements
Balmain
Bead it, stud it, make it tight, and you better make sure it sparkles! At least those were the rules with many of the looks at Dior, Balmain, and Emporio Armani — just to name a few. Dior Men’s Kim Jones sent down a myriad of pearl-drop, sequin-embellished mesh that will definitely send the boys (like me, at least) in a tizzy. Entire suits and shirts were made of shimmering crystals, beads, and studs at Balmain and Louis Vuitton — the former echoing the future and the latter echoing the past.
The return of the Sweeper Coat
Louis-Gabriel Nouchi
Get ready to let it drag — and I don’t mean drag queens, honey. Designers have reintroduced the sweeper coat in many of their collection finales. Gucci introduced a khaki coat midway through their collection and closed the show with a luxurious black wool overcoat that cleaned up the runway. Amiri’s version of the sweeper was extremely tailored with exaggerated lapels in a sublime wool silk blend. Louis-Gabriel Nouchi introduced the sweeper in a print and a nylon technical fabric— a surprising but delightful switch to the dressier versions of other collections.
Suit Shorts (or no shorts at all)
Louis Vuitton
If you don’t know me by now, I am the first supporter of slipping on a pair of short-shorts, if the weather permits. Well, it seems like the fashion gods are pushing this notion well into fall/winter! Marine Serre and Louis Vuitton showed baggier shorts at or below the knee, but brands like Dior, J.W. Anderson, and Louis-Gabriel Nouchi dared to show thighs! There were also some looks with no shorts at all at Loewe, GmBH, and J.W. Anderson.
Green with envy
Prada
The color green is most commonly associated with springtime as it symbolizes rebirth. But the fall/winter men’s shows had hints of this resounding renewal in many of their collections. Gucci, Prada, Givenchy, and Dior showcased the show-stopping color in various ways: Gucci (with the newly appointed creative director Sabato De Sarno) had a nylon bomber with matching leather gloves and handbag; Prada and Dior had shots of the color within their accessories; and Givenchy (whose house has no current creative director appointed) opted for a more subdued green in a fur safari jacket. The Emerald City look trickled down to fan-favorite brands S.S. Daley, GmBH, Loewe, and Paul Smith in outerwear and formalwear.
This story is part of the Out March/April issue, which hits newsstands on April 2. Support queer media and subscribe — or download the issue through Apple News, Zinio, Nook, or PressReader starting March 18.
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