French Polynesia: A journey to LGBTQ+ heaven on Earth

Captivated by French Polynesia  

I often get asked, “Where’s a place you’d want to return?” And since visiting in May this year, the answer has been clear: French Polynesia. There’s something undeniably special about this collection of islands that captures your heart and never quite lets go.

Commonly referred to as The Islands of Tahiti or Tahiti Et Ses Iles in French, French Polynesia is a collection of 118 islands scattered across a vast stretch of the South Pacific. It’s one of the last corners of the earth to be inhabited by humans, and I found myself fascinated by its history – diving into its unique journey of overwater migrations from Southeast Asia that led to a culture flourishing long before the rest of the world knew it existed. Today, the islands are an overseas collectivity of France, home to about 276,000 people, with most of the population concentrated in Tahiti, the largest and most well-known of the islands. Rich in culture, natural beauty, and unique experiences, French Polynesia is truly a place worth exploring.

Is French Polynesia heaven on Earth?

While everyone’s idea of paradise may differ, I’d argue that a trip to French Polynesia is about as close as you can get to heaven on Earth. And please, don’t quote me on this, but I’m almost certain Belinda Carlisle had these islands in mind when she recorded her 1987 hit, “Heaven Is a Place on Earth.” By the end of my trip, it had become my personal soundtrack. Waking up each day to the sights and sounds of paradise, I couldn’t help but hum along as the song played in my head.

A paradise loved by A-listers, inclusive to everyone

It’s no surprise that French Polynesia draws people from all walks of life, including the world’s biggest celebrities. During a family vacation, Kim Kardashian famously lost a diamond earring in Bora Bora’s crystal-clear waters, only to have it rescued by her sister Kylie Jenner, while Pierce Brosnan and Eddie Murphy have also been seen enjoying the island’s stunning beauty on more than one occasion. Perhaps the most iconic Hollywood connection is bisexual icon, Marlon Brando, who purchased the private atoll (a ring-shaped island) of Tetiaroa in the 1960s and turned it into his personal sanctuary. Today, Tetiaroa is home to The Brando, a luxury eco-resort that has welcomed the likes of Leonardo DiCaprio, Jay-Z and Beyoncé, Barack and Michelle Obama, and Rebel Wilson. Despite its allure for A-listers, French Polynesia remains incredibly warm and welcoming to all travelers, including LGBTQ+ visitors. The culture’s openness and the sense of community make it a safe, inviting destination – one that leaves everyone feeling embraced and celebrated.

A taste of island life

French Polynesia is as much about its rich culture as its breathtaking beauty. Like many aspects of contemporary Polynesian life, the cuisine reflects a melding of diverse influences that have shaped the islands. Saltwater people at heart, Polynesians are passionate fishers and the culinary traditions here center largely on the ocean’s bounties. And for vegans? Surprisingly, despite the islands' focus on seafood, I found some delightful plant-based options. Fresh, vibrant fruit was always within reach, and to my pleasant surprise, there was also a clear appreciation for tofu, adding a welcome touch of versatility to vegan offerings at the hotels and restaurants I visited.

Island hopping 101

When planning your trip, remember that French Polynesia is made up of five distinct archipelagos (a group of islands) spread across an area roughly the size of Europe. For my first visit, I explored three islands, spending three to four days on each: Tahiti, Rangiroa, and Taha'a. Though my trip sometimes felt like Lady Gaga’s iconic quote, “plane, next place, no sleep,” I wouldn’t have had it any other way. This guide will help you decide which islands to explore or perhaps inspire you to follow in my footsteps on an equally unforgettable journey.

Getting there

Before diving into all that French Polynesia has to offer, you might be wondering – where exactly is it, and how do you get there? The Islands of Tahiti are in the heart of the South Pacific; reaching them is easier than you might think. Hawaiian Airlines offers direct flights from Honolulu to Fa’a’ā International Airport (PPT) in Papeete, Tahiti’s bustling capital.

Air Tahiti Nui provides direct flights from Los Angeles and San Francisco, with an average flight time of about eight hours, and also connects French Polynesia to the rest of the world with routes to Paris, Auckland, and Tokyo. Known for its exceptional service, the airline even made history recently by hosting an onboard vow renewal for the plaintiffs of the landmark Perry vs. Hollingsworth case, underscoring the carrier’s commitment to making these islands a destination for love, adventure, and unforgettable memories.

The moment you land in Papeete, you’re greeted with floral garlands, warm songs, and lively dances by locals—an arrival often described as one of the world's most welcoming. The sweet fragrance of the Tahitian Gardenia, given to each visitor, sets the tone for a truly magical stay.

Air Tahiti and Air Moana are your go-to carriers for flying within the destination. A heads-up—they’re quite strict about liquids—anything over 100ml should be placed in your checked luggage. Also, the views on these flights are breathtaking, so if available, definitely snag yourself a window seat!

Tahiti (tuh-HEE-tee): The heart of French Polynesia

Tahiti is French Polynesia’s largest and best-known island, often serving as the gateway to the region – but it’s far more than just a stopover. Tahiti is made up of two parts: Tahiti Nui (“nui” meaning great) and Tahiti Iti (“iti” meaning small), which are linked together by the isthmus of Taravao. While Tahiti Nui is the larger, more developed side, Tahiti Iti is a smaller, volcanic peninsula that remains mountainous, unspoiled, and well worth exploring. With a population of around 190,000, Tahiti boasts a welcoming community, beautiful black-and-white sand beaches, and a rich cultural heritage. It’s also where the word “tattoo” originates—the Tahitian “tatau” is a rite of passage for many, a mark of beauty ceremoniously applied often during adolescence. Free of poisonous insects or snakes, Tahiti is as idyllic as it sounds. Its economy thrives on tourism, pearl farming, fishing, and agriculture, and with warm temperatures year-round between 77°-86°F (25°-30°C), Tahiti offers a true paradise, no matter when you visit.

Where to stay in Tahiti

Le Tahiti by Pearl Resorts offers an idyllic stay just ten minutes from downtown Papeete, with a prime spot facing Lafayette's black volcanic sand beach and stunning views of Matavai Bay. Located less than a 25-minute drive from the airport, this oceanfront resort is both convenient and breathtaking. Upon entering your room, you’ll be greeted with a warm "Ia ora na" spelled out on your bed (“hello” or “welcome” in Tahitian), along with a complimentary tote bag perfect for beach days. The 91 rooms and suites are beautifully decorated with wood accents and tropical leaf wallpaper, enhancing the island feel. Some rooms feature jacuzzi tubs perfect for melting away any stresses and getting you into island mode. Ocean-facing balconies provide privacy and pinch-me-worthy sunset views, while thoughtful touches like bedside USB ports, full-length mirrors, and luxurious toiletries—including dental and shaving kits—add to the convenience. The property is spacious, giving it a peaceful vibe even when at full capacity, and the crowd only really gathers for breakfast, where a delicious buffet is served, or at the Thursday evening Marquesan dinner and show by the group Kaputu Nui—a highlight of my stay. The resort’s oceanfront pool offers stunning views, making it hard to choose between lounging poolside or heading straight to the nearby black sand beach. The hotel also provides a daily shuttle to and from Papeete, making it easy to explore the capital.

What to see and do in Tahiti –  personal highlight

For an unforgettable journey, book a full-day expedition with Tahiti Surfari. Their 8+ hour Te Pari Adventure Tour begins with a convenient hotel pickup. With all the snorkeling equipment provided, you'll be ready to dive into crystal-clear waters (although I suggest you bring hiking shoes and water shoes for the various terrains). You'll snorkel, leap from cliff tops, and explore the stunning Fenua Aihere—the remote, untouched side of the island only accessible by boat. After a breezy boat ride, you'll arrive at Te Pari. Here, you can refresh in the Queen's Pool, shower under cascading waterfalls, and head to Faaroa Bay for even more breathtaking scenery. Along the way, the friendly and knowledgeable guides share valuable survival techniques should you need to know if you ever find yourself stranded on a deserted island—a question vegans get asked quite often—so I paid particularly close attention when the tour guide demonstrated how to crack open a coconut. Back across the famous Teahupo’o lagoon, known for its world-class surf break featured in the recent Olympics, you'll experience the awe-inspiring sight of Teahupo’o up close—a personal highlight of the tour. A traditional Polynesian lunch and refreshing beverages served throughout the day perfectly round out this unique island adventure.

What to see and do in Tahiti – culture and craft

• Be sure to join the traditional Polynesian night at your hotel. Many properties host these unforgettable evenings once a week, featuring music, dance, and Polynesian buffets—a feast for both your taste buds and your eyes! It's definitely an experience worth planning your schedule around.
• Papeete Market is the perfect place for shopping, whether you're after fresh fruits, oils, handcrafted jewelry, or vibrant textiles to bring back home. If you need a quick break from all the shopping, Maeva Café, located upstairs in the market, serves great options for a quick respite.
• On the islands, greeting guests with a lei (flower necklace) is more than just a warm welcome—it symbolizes respect, connection, and the island's natural beauty. Luxury resorts often extend this gesture, adding a distinct touch of hospitality. Upon check-in, I hung mine up, and the sweet aroma of Tahitian Gardenia lingered in my room for days. If you're curious about the cultural meaning behind these adornments, why not learn how to make your own? Many hotels can arrange a crafting session with a local artist. Rehia Itcher, a talented local, taught me how to craft a floral crown in a plucked-out-of-a-postcard shaded spot in the hotel's garden. I also learned a few traditions, like how wearing a flower on the left side of your head means your heart is taken while wearing it on the right suggests you're available.

Where to eat and drink

• Dive into the vibrant nightlife of Papeete with a visit to Malabar. This local favorite celebrates diversity and offers a welcoming space for all, including the LGBTQ+ community and our allies. This hotspot is open Thursday through Saturday, with an atmosphere that invites mingling and fun. From karaoke to live bands and DJs, there's always something happening to keep the vibe lively and entertaining.
• For a taste of French cuisine with a Tahitian twist, head over to Le Grillardin. This cozy spot boasts charming artwork, imaginative dishes, and generous servings that satisfy both appetite and aesthetics. Their extensive wine list and delicious cocktails are a perfect accompaniment to a laid-back evening, and the warm atmosphere makes it ideal for dinner any night except Sundays when they're closed.
• Taitea Brasserie is another excellent option at the Hilton Hotel. Known for its mouthwatering menu, it's a nice spot to indulge in local flavors while enjoying stunning views.

Next island – Rangiroa (rahng-ee-ROH-ah)

Rangiroa is a lesser-known gem of The Islands of Tahiti– a scenic one-hour flight from Tahiti or Bora Bora lands you at Rangiroa Airport (RGI), where breathtaking views await. As the largest atoll in the Tuamotus, a sprawling archipelago in the northeastern region of French Polynesia, Rangiroa captivates with its natural beauty and immense lagoon. Its lagoon is so large it's known as “The Endless Lagoon” since it offers an incredible marine-rich environment, perfect for snorkelers and divers alike. The crystal-clear waters are filled with vibrant coral reefs (be careful not to touch or stand on them), colorful fish, dolphins, and even gentle species of sharks that pose no threat as long as they're respected in their natural habitat. In the local language, Rangiroa means “vast sky,” a fitting name for a place that embodies the endless beauty of both its ocean and horizon.

Where to stay in Rangiroa

Hotel Kia Ora Resort & Spa is the epitome of barefoot luxury, featuring 58 stunning bungalows set along Rangiroa’s coral reef atoll amidst lush gardens and coconut groves. Guests can choose between beach bungalows, overwater bungalows—a concept born in French Polynesia—or private villas, each offering an unforgettable experience. I experienced one of their villas, complete with a private pool, outdoor bath, shower, and a “Fare Poté'e” (covered terrace) for ultimate relaxation. White coral walls surrounded it for the ultimate privacy. The resort's infinity pool is a highlight, and there's nothing quite like sipping a tropical cocktail at the overwater Miki Miki Bar as the sun sets. Kia Ora also hosts traditional Polynesian shows, a testament to the resort's deep respect and commitment to the local Rangiroan culture. For those with a spirit of adventure, Kia Ora is the perfect choice. The resort offers electric scooters and bikes for guests to explore the island’s 6-mile stretch, plus shuttles to Tiputa Pass for a chance to see dolphins playing at sunset. Its close proximity to the natural Aquarium, a snorkeler’s paradise, makes this resort an ideal base for exploration.

What to see and do in Rangiroa

Rangiroa offers a range of unforgettable water activities, but the full-day lagoon tour through Kaimana Excursions should be at the top of your list. After a scenic 50-minute boat ride from the main island, you’ll arrive at Avatoru, a nearby atoll, then head to the Blue Lagoon and Reef Island—a private island where lunch, snacks, and non-alcoholic drinks are included. Multiple opportunities to snorkel throughout the day reveal vibrant marine life, each spot offering something unique, making every dive a thrilling underwater adventure. A personal highlight was snorkeling alongside blacktip reef sharks—French Polynesia's most prevalent shark species. Small and easily recognized by the black tips on their fins, these sharks are docile as long as they are respected from a distance. Though they may seem to come too close for comfort, they generally pose no threat, making the experience exhilarating rather than frightening. Swimming with them was not one of the things on my vision board, but having done so, I now understand why it's a bucket-list item for many. Another unforgettable experience was snorkeling at the natural Aquarium, teeming with more fish than I ever imagined. After the tour, you'll return to Avatoru, enjoying the most stunning shades of blue along the way.

For those looking for a more relaxed experience, spend a day or two on Rangiroa’s gorgeous pink sand beaches, soaking up the sun and the beauty around you while cooling off in the crystal-clear water—pure paradise!

Where to eat and drink in Rangiroa

For a truly unique culinary experience, head to Motu Fara – a 4.5-acre private island just a short boat ride away. Exploring a motu (a small islet within the lagoon of a larger island) is an experience that should be at the top of any French Polynesia itinerary. The island boasts two luxurious villas with private pools, accommodating up to 14 guests for those looking to stay overnight. But even if you aren't lodging here, it's a must-visit for lunch or dinner. The owner, Miel, and her warm staff create a welcoming atmosphere, making every guest feel like VIPs. Their signature cocktails, especially the Tava (a twist on the classic Mai Tai), are not to be missed. Dinner features freshly caught fish and vanilla straight from their garden, with vegan options available, too. After your meal, enjoy stargazing on the deck, where you might even spot some sharks!

For another unforgettable dining experience, visit Les Relais de Joséphine, a family-run guesthouse near Tiputa Pass. This charming spot offers cozy bungalows for those wanting to stay overnight and a Polynesian-inspired menu featuring local fish, with adaptations available for dietary needs. Lunch includes quiches, bagels, and more, served on their terrace, where you can watch the world go by—no reservation needed. But for dinner, be sure to book at least 24 hours in advance.

Next stop: Taha’a (tah-HAH-ah)

Next on the journey is Taha’a, aptly referred to as Vanilla Island. Although Taha’a doesn't have an airport, it remains a popular destination for those who seek hidden gems. Most visitors fly from Papeete to Raiatea—the second largest of the Society Islands after Tahiti. From there, a scenic boat ride will take you to Taha’a or one of its nearby motu. With a population of just over 5,000, Taha’a’s intimate charm is enriched by its fertile land, which produces some of the world's finest vanilla—an aroma that fills the air and adds an olfactory experience to your visit. Tahitian pearls are also farmed here, making Taha’a a treasure trove for nature lovers and those intrigued by the island’s cultural heritage. Surrounded by idyllic motu with pristine white sandy beaches, Taha’a is an enchanting destination that truly feels like a well-kept secret of the South Pacific.

Where to stay in Taha'a

Le Taha’a by Pearl Resorts is a quintessential escape into paradise. Arrive at Raiatea Airport, then enjoy a quick 30-minute water taxi ride that will whisk you to Motu Tautau, a private islet set between the lush shores of Taha’a and the striking silhouette of Bora Bora. The resort features 50 overwater bungalows and ten beachfront suites, each designed to embrace Polynesian charm while delivering modern luxury. Thoughtful touches like ponchos for rare and spontaneous rain showers, loofahs, reusable water bottles, and more add to the sense of comfort. Staying in an overwater bungalow here was an experience I'd saved for the last leg of my trip, and it was worth it – there's simply nothing quite like waking up to the sound of waves beneath you and being steps away from a morning dip. Le Taha’a was the first Relais & Châteaux member in the Islands of Tahiti, and it lives up to this legacy with personalized service, spacious rooms, and warm, friendly staff who make every guest feel at home. Paradise reaches new heights as you snorkel the nearby coral garden, witnessing vivid blue and purple coral and a kaleidoscope of tropical fish. In addition to snorkeling, the resort provides complimentary activities like kayaking and standup paddleboarding, ensuring that your days are filled with adventure. Ultimately, if you're truly looking to get away from it all—but still need a fast Wi-Fi connection – Le Taha'a is exactly where you want to be.

What to see and do in Taha'a

Since Le Taha’a is situated on a private motu, its thoughtfully curated amenities make it almost too tempting to leave. From enjoying the flood-lit tennis courts—allowing for day or night practice with all gear provided—to a fleet of water sports equipment, there's plenty to keep you entertained. Kayaks, snorkeling equipment, outrigger canoes, and stand-up paddleboards are available to explore Taha'a's clear, pristine lagoon—an exhilarating mix of fun and exercise!

For those looking to go beyond the resort, I highly recommend Poerani Tours. Guests can easily catch a complimentary shuttle boat to the main island of Taha’a (available until 5:00 pm). Poerani Tours offers a range of experiences, including visits to the Iaorana Pearl Farm, local vanilla plantations, the Domaine Pari Pari Rhum Distillery, and ATV adventures. Teva and Linda, the owners, add a personal touch, sitting down with their guests for an incredible home-cooked Polynesian meal. This warm hospitality makes their tours feel less like a typical tourist excursion and more like a gathering of friends, and their lunch was indeed one of the best meals of my trip.

Where to eat and drink in Taha'a

Along with indulging in Linda and Teva’s incredible home-cooked meal during one of the many Poerani Tours offer, the culinary delights at Le Taha’a are also a must. Le Hawaiki Nui, the resort's main restaurant, is perched high on the treetops, offering stunning views of Taha'a lagoon and the lush gardens below. This serene spot is perfect for breakfast, where you can savor freshly squeezed juices, tropical fruits, and a mix of French pastries alongside both hot and cold buffet options. Dinner at Le Hawaiki Nui is equally impressive, especially their à la carte menu, which features an array of both local and international dishes that cater to all dietary needs, including vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free. Every Tuesday, the restaurant hosts a vibrant Polynesian buffet paired with a live show – a wonderful way to experience the rich culture of Taha'a while enjoying a delicious meal.

Conclude your island-hopping adventure at Hilton Hotel Tahiti

As you return to Tahiti to catch your flight home, why not switch up the scenery and end your island-hopping adventure at the Hilton Hotel Tahiti? Just a convenient five-minute drive from downtown Papeete, it’s the perfect spot to conclude your dream trip. Rooms and suites feature sliding French doors that open to garden or lagoon views and island-inspired artwork, with easily accessible power outlets for convenience. The property boasts a large outdoor pool with breathtaking views of Moorea Island, ample seating with six private cabanas, and a swim-up bar for those lazy afternoons.

Guests can enjoy three onsite restaurants: Moevai & La Strada, an overwater restaurant that serves as a breakfast buffet by day and a charming bistro by night; San, a secluded spot for sushi, nigiri, and sashimi; and Taitea Brasserie – a casual place offering salads, seafood, steak, and French Polynesian specialties. The Hilton also features a full-service spa with local-inspired treatments, like a warm seashell massage, helping to release tension in both body and mind.

If your Air Tahiti Nui flight departs late at night—which many do— an overnight hotel stay might not be necessary. Both Hilton Hotel Tahiti and Intercontinental Tahiti Resort & Spa offer wonderful reduced-rate "transit rooms" for a few hours—perfect for a pre-flight shower, dinner, or even a nap—while keeping your luggage secure. And best of all, both hotels are just a quick five-minute shuttle ride from the airport.

Major annual events in French Polynesia

French Polynesia hosts various annual events celebrating its culture, diversity, and community spirit. Make sure to check local listings for the latest dates and times.

• Tahiti Pride, organized annually since 2023, by the Cousins Cousines Association, celebrates inclusivity and visibility for the LGBTQ+ community through a week of festivities, discussions, and activities.
• In July, the spirit of France is alive in Tahiti as Bastille Day is celebrated with traditional parades, dances, and festivities—a true blend of French and Polynesian culture. Also, in July, Heiva brings the islands to life with vibrant performances, dances, and competitions that honor the rich Polynesian heritage, making it one of the most spectacular cultural festivals in the destination.
• MisterTahiti, held in October, is a much-anticipated competition where participants showcase their physical fitness, charisma, and connection to Polynesian culture. Think chiseled abs, charming smiles, and enough charisma to make you want to book a one-way ticket to paradise.
• If running a marathon is on your bucket list, why not do it in paradise? French Polynesia hosts two stunning options: Tahiti’s marathon in November and Moorea’s in March. Both offer scenic routes through lush landscapes and along sparkling coastlines, making every mile unforgettable.

Embracing diversity: French Polynesia's LGBTQ+ culture

The Islands of Tahiti are known for their inclusive spirit, and in recent years, progressive LGBTQ+ laws have ensured equal rights for all. Since 2013, this has included marriage equality. The destination has been a beacon of acceptance in the South Pacific, with the first same-sex marriage taking place on the island of Moorea that same year. A unique aspect of Tahitian culture is its recognition of diverse gender identities. Māhū individuals, considered a third gender,embody both male and female qualities. Raerae, another recognized identity, refers to those assigned male at birth who live as women, similar to transgender women in Western contexts. This deep-rooted respect for all identities contributes to the islands’ welcoming atmosphere, making French Polynesia a wonderful and safe destination for LGBTQ+ travelers.

Travel tips and essentials

• Weather: The islands are a year-round tropical destination with average temperatures of around 80°F (27°C). Air conditioning is available at all major resorts, including the properties listed above.
• The packing list: Pack essentials like Thrive Skincare reef-safe sunscreen, Kinfield mosquito repellent, and a Case-Mate to protect your phone. Don't forget to bring a swim shirt or rash guard for sun protection - Solbari offers a stylish loose-fitted shirt with UPF 50+ protection. To protect the face, a chic Jacquemus hat and stylish Tom Ford sunglasses provide sun protection with flair. For footwear, consider Vessi waterproof shoes for casual adventures and Orlebar Brown water shoes for more aquatic activities. If you're prone to seasickness, Amazon offers reliable motion sickness tablets. Lastly, stock up on plenty of shorts and/or bathing suits for versatile, comfortable options to suit your itinerary. SAXX and Vitamin Swim offer a great variety of styles and colors.
• Languages: French and Tahitian are the official languages, though English is commonly spoken in tourist areas and hotels. Knowing a few Tahitian phrases can add warmth to your interactions with locals. Try using Ia ora na (yo-rah-nah) for “Hello,” Nānā (nah-nah) for “Goodbye,” and Maururu (mah-roo-roo) for “Thank you.” Another useful word is Maeva (mah-yeh-vah), meaning “Welcome” – a word you'll hear often from the locals.
• Tipping: Tipping is not customary but is appreciated.
• Alcohol and cannabis: The legal drinking age is 18. Cannabis is not legal in French Polynesia.
• Transportation: Uber is not available. You can arrange transfers via the hotels or take a taxi upon arrival at the airports.

Other important information

• Currency: French Polynesia uses the Pacific Franc (XPF). Credit cards are widely accepted at resorts and most restaurants, and exchange services are available at banks and major resorts. Euro and US dollars are also accepted in many places.
• Phone and internet: Check with your provider about international plans, as roaming rates can be costly. All major resorts, including the properties listed above, offer basic Wi-Fi for free or at an extra cost for premium.
• Electricity: French Polynesia uses type C plugs (the one with the two round pins).
• Time zone: French Polynesia spans three time zones, with all the larger islands on GMT-10, the same as Hawai’i. Daylight Saving Time is not observed in the region.
• Sustainability: The islands enforce strict regulations on marine life to ensure conservation. Respect local guidelines to help protect the environment.
• Visa requirements: No visa is required for visitors from the US, EU, UK, and many other countries for stays under 90 days. EU citizens are also exempt from needing a long-stay visa, which was music to my ears!