Slowing down in Sonoma

Clockwise from top left: Big Bottom Market; Boon's Crista Luedtke and consulting mixologist Christina Cabrera; El Barrio | Photo Credit: Kelly Puleio (Big Bottom Market). Courtesy of Boon Hotel + Spa. Courtesy of El Barrio.

It was post-harvest when my partner and I headed toward Sonoma's scruffy Guerneville, leaving Napa's polished and pretty Yountville where we'd spent the last two days visiting wineries geared to touristy inebriation. It was our first trip to California's wine country and, as we threaded our way down the twisty terrain of a hilly back road (luckily, from the comfort of a Cadillac ELR we were test driving), the golden leaves of the vineyards passed from view, and something in the air shifted as redwoods towered over us. Without even realizing it, we'd found a perfect romantic respite, and it started with this bucolic setting.

Although the area along the Russian River has been popular with folks from the Bay Area since the late 19th century, and saw a gay renaissance take place in the 1970s, Guerneville still feels like a fresh discovery. That's partially thanks to a new wave of imaginative entrepreneurs setting up shop in a town that remains rough around the edges. Crista Luedtke, for example, has a mini tastemaker empire. Along with Boon Hotel + Spa (her establishment), she runs Boon Eat + Drink, co-owns Big Bottom Market, and recently opened El Barrio, an upscale Mexican-themed bar serving top-shelf mezcals. Just a few doors down, chef Mike Selvera, who made a name for himself at Bar Crudo in San Francisco, is serving up amazing raw seafood (without the fuss or long waits) at Seaside Metal (SeasideMetal.com). Oysters, uni, and wine: the perfect way to get in the mood.