Into the West

At a remote post office in West Iceland, we're leafing through Bible-thick binders of stamps when we find one bearing the "stone harp" of artist Pall Gudmundsson, whose stomping grounds we'd toured not 24 hours earlier. There's an unmistakable interconnectedness in Iceland, particularly its western region, where fishing towns like Stykkisholmur provide refuge for those looking to branch beyond Reykjavik. Intimate and rich in crafts, the west offers one cyclical experience after another, be it tracing the path of the clay used to make your hotel's mugs, or watching how sweater-friendly wool makes its way from a sheep's back to yours. Traversing the landscape, you're bound to encounter standout curiosities. But while each stop will seem like its own event, don't be surprised that when you wrap your trip (and perhaps pull over to mail a postcard), you feel you've come full circle. Below, our highlights.

All photos By Brandon Presser, R. Kurt Osenlund & Aaron Hicklin

Ceramics

Off a dock in Stykkisholmur, you can hop on a Zodiac boat and tour the fjords so prominent in Icelandic sagas, the beaches of which are lined with local clay that's notoriously tough to manipulate (IcelandOceanTours.is). When you return, though, pay a visit to Sigga (Leir7.is), a ceramicist who's managed to master the stuff. Her wares fill the shelves of local establishments, and her signature touch is a melted black stone from a nearby beach -- the only place in the world such stones are found.


Wool

Not down with knitting? You might feel differently after a thorough experience available in West Iceland, where one can take a whole "knitting circle" tour (Esjatravel.is), seeing the sheep whose wool is harvested, learning about yarn that's dyed with plants and lichens, and maybe taking a knitting class yourself (ask for Rita, a spinning workshop teacher from area farm Grenigerdi). You'll feel a stronger connection to the blankets keeping you warm at night.


Water

Stykkisholmur is home to the Library of Water, an installation by New York-based queer artist Roni Horn, whose elegant response to the onset of global warming was the preservation of glacial water. Horn sought out water from glaciers like those near Stykkisholmur's shores, then displayed it in one scenic room, encased in dramatic pillars. Her efforts have proved valuable -- one glacier represented in the collection has already melted. LibraryOfWater.is


Sagas

Relive Iceland's most compelling legend -- Egil's Saga -- through elaborate wood carvings and a surprisingly comical audio guide at the Settlement Center in Borganes. Bringing the tale to life was the brainchild of power couple Kjartan Ragnarsson and Sigridur Margret Gudmundsdottir, members of the nation's thespian community. Don't miss the in-house restaurant, which slings Icelandic faves like plokkfiskur, whipped fish with potatoes and cream. English.Landnam.is

READ: QUEERING THE SAGAS


Eat

A lonely inn and a little black church sit shivering in the wind where western lava fields topple into the turbid sea. Here lies Hotel Budir, which feels romantic in its remoteness, but attracts the jet set flock with its gourmet dinners, served nightly. Expect unique recipes like veal tartare and a staunch locavore attitude -- the chef practically walks his ingredients to the kitchen. HotelBudir.is


Sleep

Set in an old merchant's home covered in bright coats of fire-engine red, Hotel Egilsen is Iceland's boutique sleep par excellence. Found objects and decidedly modern details flank the retro yellow staircase inside. Rooms have tons of local charm like handwoven duvets by Vik Prjonsdottir and vases by Sigga. The breakfast, served by hostess-with-the-mostest Greta (see number 48), comes with an assortment of homemade breads, jams, and scrambled eggs smothered in sage. Egilsen.is

All photos By Brandon Presser, R. Kurt Osenlund, and Aaron Hicklin