"I've always imagined my clothes on stage," says Andrew Morrison, "like in a theater or a performance." But one place you won't see Morrison's clothes this week is on a runway. Living up to his title as OUT's reigning Fashion Vanguard Award winner (he claimed the inaugural prize last year), Morrison takes a consummately alternative approach to his work as a designer, from his cuts and his materials to his clients and presentations. Tonight, he'll release his latest capsule collection, "Season Two," which will be available for purchase immediately, and which isn't so much a new line as an extension of the genderless evening wear that's earned him his following.
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"I try to ignore most things fashion-related that are happening around me right now, including fashion week," Morrison says. "I much prefer to look back into the past or forward into the future. The rest of it just distracts me. I don't pull inspiration from one specific thing. I don't have mood boards. I'm not that type of designer."
Morrison's garments, all of which can be tailored to fit a man or a woman, are at once classic and radical. For example, he says he's inspired by old Hollywood glamour (hence his flowing silk drapery and floor-length paneled coats), as well as fetish wear and Home Depot. On a rack in the factory where he works in Midtown, you'll see a flowing, elegant androgynous top alongside a skin-bearing, glorified harness and a coat adorned with metal and plastics that are safety pinned to the shoulder. Ostensibly, Morrison could send something down the red carpet that has the high-end flair he grew to love when he worked for Zac Posen, and complementary touches that he copped from the dollar store.
"My clothes are sometimes a reflection of me taking anything or anyone that's bothering me and telling them to fuck off," Morrison says. "Plus I have an appreciation for costume design, too. It allows me to be dramatic and amplify my collection. My ideal customer is someone who has a fearless attitude and isn't concerned about what people think about them. These aren't the sort of clothes you wear if you don't want people to look at you. But they are the sort of clothes that hopefully allow customers to feel comfortable and to dress for themselves."
Related | Gallery: Andrew Morrison's 'Season Two' Lookbook
Morrison says he sometimes feels like he's creating his fashions "too soon," as in the industry--and society--haven't yet reached a point where many buyers would confidently open their minds to his garments. But, his hermetic design proclivities notwithstanding, he's right on trend when it comes to crafting clothing that anyone--of any gender--can wear.
"Women can wear my pants, of course, but menswear has always frustrated me with its limitations," Morrison says. "I like designing clothing that I would want--with a feminine vibe that can fit a man. And the way men are wanting to dress today is of course changing. A man in a blouse makes just as much sense as a woman in a blouse--at least to me."
For Morrison, the alt-romantic "Season Two" was partly inspired by Netflix's hit series The OA The setting used in the show for the family home of the abducted lead character (played by Brit Marling) is Morrison's aunt's house in Rockland County, NY. It was emptied out by the production crew and filled with new furniture for filming. Morrison grew up down the street and spent most holidays in that house. Galvanized in part by the show's interpretable narrative and overarching theme of resilience, Morrison opted to travel to the house to shoot a personal editorial on the grounds and within the interior, and create a fashion video that's set to be projected at the designer's upcoming shop-and-sell event (Morrison plans to release the content later this week).
The domestic setting also spoke to newer pieces featured in Morrison's capsule. Adding to his cache of high-waisted pants and cumber bund belts are full-length and crop-top aprons in black, silver, cream, and distressed leather. He also put his own spin on the hospital gown, continuing his tendency to produce clothes that both tie and billow in the breeze. All of these items aren't just going to be available via Morrison's web store, but sold to customers with whom he takes one-on-one consultations, tailoring the clothing to fit them and often draping them in his wild array of materials.
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"Everything should be tailored," says Morrison, who, given his tutelage in domestic production, often emphasizes the fact that all of his work is made in New York. "Even your jeans should be tailored. At the end of the day, we live in a world where people want to feel special. The question is always, 'How do you incorporate that into your brand?'"
Step one: Don't follow the pack.
For this OUT exclusive, Morrison shot his "Season Two" lookbook with photographer Dusty St. Amand. The accompanying video was filmed and edited by St. Amand, with vocals by Richard Cortez. To view and purchase Morrison's new capsule collection, and to receive updates about his upcoming shop-and-sell events, visit www.andrewmorrisonnyc.com.
